Step 1: Build Support Frames and Attaching Metal Brackets
Using 2"x6" treated lumber, begin by cutting Support Frame pieces
(A, B, C, D, and E) to length, as shown in Diagram 1 & 2. Cut
enough pieces to assemble all but one Support Frame. Most plans
require 18, 24, or 36 support frames, depending on the size of the
pool and decks depth.
For example: If the entire deck requires 18 Support Frames, pre-cut
lumber for 17 Support Frames. The last frame will be cut-to-fit due to
irregularities of pool sizes and construction methods. For some pools, the
filters will affect the framing of the deck. This is great location for the last
custom support frame.
Cut an angle on each end of pieces A, B, and C, as shown in
Diagram 2. The required degree can be found the plan. Pieces D
and E will be cut with a square 90 degree angle on each end.
Attach the four outside pieces of the Support Frame, as shown in Diagram 3. Center and secure two - 2 1/2" deck screws at each
connection. Pieces D and E will extend past the EDGE of support
board A by 3 inches.
Step 1: Build Support Frames and Attaching Metal Brackets - Continued
"Square" the Support Frame by adjusting the outside members
until the distance between opposite corners is equal, as shown
in Diagram 4. After the Support frame is "squared," center and
secure the remaining piece (B) with three - 2 1/2" deck screws, as
shown in Diagram 5.
Secure two additional 2 1/2" deck screws at each of the four
corners of the Support Frame.
Attach a metal corner bracket (Simpson Strong-Tie® LS50Z or
similar) in each of the outside corners of the Support Frames.
Next, attach a metal joist hanger (Simpson Strong-Tie® LUS26Z or
similar) to each end of the (A) and (B) 2"x6" support board. A slight
bend in the corner brackets and joist hanger will be needed to fit
the angles of the Support Frame, as shown in Diagram 5.
Repeat until all Support Frames have been constructed.
All brackets and hangers
should either be Hot Dipped
Galvanized, ZMAX Galvanized
products or similar products
designed for exterior pressure
treated lumber.Use the
recommended nails or
connectors for each product.
Step 2: Positioning Dek-Block® Piers and Leveling Posts
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Since every pool is unique, the location of the first Dek-Block® pier
will vary for your specific pool size and manufacturer. Determine
where the first Support Frame will be located, then position the first
four Dek-Block® piers for this Support Frame. The most convenient
location to begin is a few feet to the left or right of the pool's filter
or pump. The Support Frame should be positioned 1-2 inches back
(out) from the pool's metal coping. (The Support Frame needs to be
away (out) from the pool's coping in order to attach the decking later.) The
Dek-Block® piers should be positioned in reference to its location
along the Support Frame. Each Dek-Block® pier should be placed
on level ground, six inches* in from the end of each Support Frame
piece D and E, as shown in Diagram 7 (* verify this dimension on the
plan – some plans may vary slightly). Once the first four Dek-Block®
piers are positioned, place a 4"x4" post in the post pocket of one of
the Dek-Block® piers and hold plumb (vertically level).
Using a level and the pool's metal coping as a guide, mark a line
level with the top of the pool's coping, as shown in Diagram 8.
From this line, subtract the following 4 items:
- The thickness of the pool's coping.
- 1/2" for water drainage and air flow between the decking and the
pool's coping.
- The thickness of the surface boards. 1 1/2" for 2"x6" decking and 1" for 5/4"x6" or composite decking.
- 5 1/2" for the thickness of the 2"x6" support frame.
Cut the 4"x4" post to length and repeat this step for all four - 4"x4"
posts of the first Support Frame.
Step 3: Attaching Support Frames
Place the Support Frame directly onto the 4"x4" posts. The
outside EDGE of the Support Frame should be positioned at
the center of the 4"x4" posts. The front edge of the Support
Frame should be 1-2 inches out from the edge of the pool's
coping. Using a straight level on two sides or a post level,
insure that the 4"x4" post is plumb (vertically level) in both
directions before attaching support frame. Secure each
Support Frame to the 4"x4" post using two - 2 1/2" deck
screws at each post. After attaching, insure that there is an
equal distant space between the top of the Support Frame
and the bottom of the pool's coping. There should be a gap
of the thickness of the decking plus 1/2 inch. The Support
Frame may not be perfectly level if the pool is not level. It's
better to align the deck with the line of the pool instead of
making the deck level. Use the next Support Frame as a
guide for the placement of the next row of Dek-Block® piers.
Repeat cutting and leveling for the remaining 4"x4" posts,
and continue placing Support Frames around the entire
pool. Attach each frame to the next using eight - 2 1/2" deck
screws from each side of the frame into the other frame. The
last Support Frame will need to be cut-to-fit.
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Step 4: Attaching Diagonal Bracing
Place a 2"x4" board diagonally behind the 4"x4"
posts. With a pencil, mark the angle at each end and
cut. Attach the 2"x4" diagonal board by toe-screwing
two - 2 1/2" deck screws from each side. Repeat the
process, alternating angles from section to section.
Bracing should be placed between the posts along
the outside perimeter of the deck, and the 4"x4" posts
perpendicular to the pool. The 2"x4" bracing boards
along the outside perimeter of the deck will need a
compound miter cut (a cut angled in two directions -
vertically and horizontally).
See Splash Pool Deck Plan for locations of 2"x4"
bracing boards.
Step 5: Attach Handrail Post Bracket
If a handrail will be installed on the "Splash" portion of the deck, a
Splash Handrail Bracket will be needed. This bracket is installed
prior to installing the decking material. At locations along the
Splash Support Frame where a handrail post is needed, place and
center the handrail bracket over the connection of the two Support
Frames.
Before securing the handrail bracket to the frame, check the
bracket with a level to verify it is plumb (vertical level) in both
directions. Adjustments can be made using exterior composite
wood shims. When the bracket is plumb, secure the top of the
bracket flange with two hanger nails. Verify plumb again before
securing all nails into the bottom flange under the Support Frame.
Secure remaining nails into all open holes in the top flange of
bracket.
Use Simpson Strong-Tie® N10DHDG Nails or similar for all flange
connections. 24 fasteners per bracket.
The Splash Handrail Bracket can be purchased from the
following locations:
DekBrands – www.deckplans.com/SplashBracket
DekBrands - 1-800-664-2705
DecksDirect – www.decksdirect.com (search: Splash)
Step 6: Attaching Deck Surface Boards
For a 3 ft Splash pool deck, cut the 12 ft. 2"x6" surface boards into
three - 4 ft pieces.
For a 4 ft Splash pool deck, cut the 10 ft. 2"x6" surface boards into
two - 5 ft pieces.
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Align the first 2"x6" surface board with the edge of a Support
frame at the connection of two Support Frames as shown in
Diagram 9. One end of the 2"x6" surface board will tuck under
the pool's coping. Cutting a 10 degree angle on at least one end
of the surface boards will help align the decking with the pool.
Leave a minimum of 1" spacing from the pool's wall and the end
of the 2"x6" surface board. The first surface board will need to
be cut-to-fit. Trim the end of the board to fit flush to the Splash
Handrail Bracket and the edge of the Support Frame. To allow
the first surface board to sit flat on the Splash Handrail Bracket,
it is recommended to drill shallow holes into the surface of the
board above the each nail head. Position the surface boards over
the Splash Handrail Bracket, tap a hammer on top of the surface
board a few times to indent the nail heads into the bottom of the
surface board. Using a 3/8" – 1/2" drill bit, drill a shallow hole at
each indented mark. The surface boards will now site flush to the
Splash Handrail Bracket. Position and secure the first decking
board using 2-1/2" deck screws.
Continue placing and securing 2"x6" surface boards until the
boards overlap the next Support Frame. Allow the remaining "full"
surface boards to overhang the Support Frame by at least 1" as
shown in Diagram 10. Secure the 2"x6" surface boards with two
2 1/2" deck screws at the connection with each 2"x6" support board.
Step 7: Attaching Deck Surface Boards - continued
Align surface boards over the connection of the two Supports
Frames. Using straight edge or chalk line, mark the line of the
intersection of the two Support Frames below as shown in
Diagram 11. Trim the angled end of the surface boards to fit and
secure to the Support Frames. The last "wedge" surface board
should be cut to fit. Trim the end of the board to fit flush to the
Splash Handrail Bracket and both edges of the Support Frame.
Position the last surface board over the Splash Handrail Bracket,
tap a hammer on top of the surface board a few times to indent
the nail heads into the bottom of the surface board. Using a 3/8"
– 1/2" drill bit, drill a shallow hole at each indented mark. The
surface boards will now site flush to the Splash Handrail Bracket.
Position and secure the first decking board using 2-1/2" deck
screws.
After all 2"x6" surface boards are secured, use a chalk line to mark
the edge of the decking flush to the outside edge of the Support
Frames as shown in Diagram 12. Using the line as a guide, cut
the overhanging edges of the 2"x6" surface boards with a circular saw.
Step 8: Attaching Handrail Post
Cut your 4"x4" handrail post to length. (The length of 4"x4" handrail
post will vary based on different handrail designs and construction.
For this example, we will be using 8ft - 4"x4" lumber cut in half, 26"
aluminum spindles and post caps. We also choose to cut a 1" chamfer
(45 degree angle) at the bottom of each 48" – 4"4" handrail post)
Position the 4"x4" handrail post into the Splash Handrail Bracket.
The top of the 4"x4" handrail post should be 38" above the top
of the surface boards. Using a level, align the post vertical such
that it is plumb on both sides. Composite shims can be used to
plumb the posts. Secure the 4"x4" handrail post with (1) 1/4" x 3"
Simpson Strong-Tie® structural lag screw and re-check plumb.
Secure another lag screw on the opposite of 4"x4" handrail post
and re-check plumb. Secure one additional lag screw on each side
of post (4 total screws per post). The 2 lag screws on each side
should be placed diagonal to each other and offsetting each other
from side to side.
Step 9: Attaching Handrail
Along the side of each 4"x4" handrail post where a rail will be
installed, make a mark 3/4" back from the inside corner of the
post 3 inches above the deck's surface. Measure from point
to point between each 4"x4" handrail post. If you are using the
Deckorators® Rail Connectors as we are in this example, subtract 1/2" from this measurement. Cut two 2"x4" treated boards at
this dimension with the same degree angle used for the Support
Frames (typically 5, 7.5 or 10 degrees). The angled cut should be
"out" from this measurement.
Position the two 2"x4" rail boards together with the longest edge
of the boards touching each other. Mark the center of the two
boards. From the center point, mark a line every 4-1/2 inches.
If the last mark is less than 2 inches from the end of the board,
offset each line 2-1/4 inches. At each line, mark the center of
the 2"x4" rail board. Position a baluster connector over each
center mark and secure with the manufactures recommended
or included hardware. Verify after balusters are installed that no
openings are 4" or greater.
At each end of each 2"x4" rail board, secure a Deckorators®
Rail Connector Bracket with the supplied hardware. The bracket
should be flush to angled cut. (Depending upon the thickness
and angle of the lumber, you may need to remove a small amount of
material from the end of the 2"x4" rail board. We found a touch of a belt
sander worked well. Remove material from the "sharp" point of the rail at
a 90 degree angle to the angled end of the board.)
Step 10: Attaching Handrail - continued
Position the bottom of the 2"x4" rail board 1-1/2" above the surface
of the deck and secure into the 4"x4" handrail post with the
hardware supplied with the rail connector. A scrap piece of 2"x4"
or 2"x6" board laying flat can be used as guide for positioning
the bottom rail board. Place a 26" aluminum baluster into each
connector on the bottom 2"x4" rail board. Align the top 2"x4" rail
board with connectors into all the aluminum baluster. Position and
secure the 2"x4" top rail board to the 4"x4" handrail post with the
hardware supplied with the rail connector.
For the top 2"x4" handrail board, rough cut a 2"x4" board slightly
long than needed. Position the board over the two 4"x4" handrail
posts. From the underside of the 2"x4" handrail board, scribe a line
along the edge of both 4"x4" handrail posts. Cut the 2"x4" handrail
board to length using the scribed lines. Position and secure the
2"x4" handrail board on top of the install rail board.
Place a 4"x4" post cap on top of each 4"x4" handrail posts and
secure using a small amount of clear silicone caulk.
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